Handmade noodles in irregular lengths with just the right amount of chew: neither gummy nor chalky. A golden broth. A generous handful of greens , more leaf than stem. Tofu marinated and slivered before joining the broth.
This winter I conducted a survey of Chinese restaurants in West Berlin. Each time I chose the simplest dish, a vegetable noodle soup, to see what each chef made of it. April now, and Tian Fu’s vegetable noodle soup* is my firm favorite, accompanied, for choice, by their fiery smoked tofu with coriander. Their hot pot, too, is rumored to be amazing, and is next on my list. (But don’t bother with their lunchtime buffet, all dessicated noodles, gluey meats and limp greens.) Afterwards you might stop at the shop next door to stock up on fresh corriander and curry leaves, and perhaps a bag of that still-elusive soft brown sugar.
* Be sure to specify handmade!Tian Fu, Berliner Straße 15, Berlin-Wilmersdorf (map)