You know how I like following a line. First, there was the temporary Kantine in a creaky-floored, derelict structure at the back of David Chipperfield's parking lot. Then the bulldozers came, and the floorboards found a new home at (Das) Lokal in Linienstrasse. Now the rubble has been cleared away in Joachimstrasse. The new canteen is all warm, raw concrete walls and immense glass squares admitting the liquid light.
You also know how, when I eat out, I respond to spaces and moods as much as the specifics of a dish. The house-baked bread was pliant, David loved his sage-infused spaetzle (€5); my chicken tacos (€8) disappeared bit by bit. We fought over the accompanying dollop of aioli.
I would put the spotlight on the atmosphere, which is buzzing and convivial on the ground floor, easy-going on the terrace benches ...
while I can imagine disappearing to the upstairs level with a book and some time, to enjoy the creamy blues and the way the cutlery catches the light. Chipperfield designed everything down to the slim knife and widely splayed fork tines.
The service is warm, informal, not over-familiar, and I am confident it will be another welcome space to relax into, an oasis from the crush of New Mitte.
Kantine at David Chipperfield (no website yet), Joachimstrasse 11, Berlin-Mitte (map)
Open Monday to Friday 8.30am to 8pm, lunch served noon to 3pm.
Tel. (030) 338 444 30