Berlin Reified | Food, design and life in Berlin

Second Advent: Dahlem Christmas Markets

Walk through the black winter forest to the lake, admiring the trunks mossed a fluorescent green. Covet, then buy a pair of cream and clover mittens knit by a twinkling grandmother with a weaver's studio in Brandenburg. Take part in the call-and-response led by the storyteller on a velvet throne thronged by engrossed toddlers and cavorting Dalmatians. Appreciate the fact that the Jagdschloss Grunewald's Christmas market snack situation is really quite good (rosemary potatoes, fish soup out of a cauldron).

On the bus back, impetuously alight at the Domäne Dahlem stop. Be pleased to be back at a beloved Christmas market. Admire, once again, the extraordinary indigo work on offer. Buy too many jams (more on those later). Drop by the local bookshop on the way home and be grateful for booksellers so unerring in their appraisal of your taste. Spend the evening on the sofa immersed in short stories while your daughter draws pencil loops on the hallway walls.

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Next week we'll be in Stockholm. Do you know cozy cafés we should visit or blogs we should consult?

I hope to compile a little Berlin guide of evergreen favorites for Christmas gifts, but let me alert you now to the beautiful 2010 calendar that Balkon & Garten has produced (below). It's on special offer today for only €6 + postage!

First Advent: The Markets

Do you remember these ornaments from a few years ago? Time to pull them out soon: It's beginning to feel like winter again, and, much to my delight, the Christmas markets rev up this first Advent weekend.

Over the years I've become more savvy. The one at Gendarmenmarkt is atmospherically located, it is true, but often overcrowded and best left to the tourists, I think. I will be back at the Domäne Dahlem Christmas market though (see breathless reports of my first visit here and here) and will swing by Kollwitzplatz one Sunday too.

Meanwhile, I'm off now to the Advents-Parcours just now, which is not so much a market as an open day (today and tomorrow) of shops and studios in Neukölln's Reuterkiez. And then we can hop on the U7 to the Swedish and Danish Christmas markets, which we miss every year, because they're so early (just this weekend!) but have inked into our calendar this time around. And then for future weekends perhaps the Rodeo design market, and the one at the Jagdschloss, and at Klausenerplatz — and do you have a favorite? — but more on all that later, because otherwise I'll miss all the fun.

Mushrooms at the market

Now if my last post hasn't tempted you to visit the local market surely this display of mushrooms will. I am dreaming of fragrant, woodsy soups and candles flickering against our kitchen tiles.

Zucchini blossoms at the market

A wonderful stand has (re)appeared at the Kollwitzplatz market on Thursdays, selling these gorgeous zucchini blossoms (10 for a euro) and tiny potatoes the size of marbles too. Look out for them tomorrow!

Fruit tree honey at Kollwitzplatz market

While the Saturday market at Kollwitzplatz can feel too overfull to be borne, the Thursday one is is still a treat. I'll meet Clare for waffles and a tea, then chat with the vegetable seller on the best way to prepare rhubarb. Afterwards, I might be drawn in by the olive oil seller's patter, and a few stalls down will be convinced to try the beekeeper's new honeys. He was quite right when he said the Obstblütenhonig, collected and jarred just a few weeks ago, is not to be missed. You taste our radiant April in a mouthful, and, stirred into black tea, the honey makes a humdrum morning divine. Watch out for him tomorrow: he might have a few more jars!

Organic market at Kollwitzplatz (map)
Thursdays from noon to 7pm

Karl August Platz Market

 
Going to Karl August Platz for my birthday was pure heaven. How refreshing, after braving the hordes of tourists at Kollwitzplatz and Winterfeldplatz, to arrive at a market so unselfconsciously beautiful. Locals wove through the stalls that ringed the spacious square and bought Flammkuchen and ate Quarkbällchen and helped themselves to armfuls of daisies and loitered in front of the fish stand where the pike was on special offer.

As a birthday treat I was permitted to idle as long as I chose, and I think I made six slow circuits before I felt I had looked at everything carefully enough. Afterwards we sat in the playground by the church and ate tarts and radishes while S batted at the balloon a Green Party representative had handed her: it seemed a long time since I had been that happy.

Karl August Platz Market, Berlin-Wilmersdorf (map)
Wednesdays 8am-1pm & Saturdays 8am-2pm

Arkonaplatz Market

I'll mention it today and not tomorrow, to give you time to plan ahead: Can I remind you how the Friday market at Arkonaplatz is just fabulous? And how there are few things more picturesque than the trout on the grill, few things crisper than the caramelized crust of the waffles fresh off the iron? Now, really, don't you want to go?

Arkonaplatz Market (map)
Fridays noon-6pm or later

Lausitzer Platz Organic Market

The glories of a fresh market! The compass of my world has grown overly small these past few years, and it is good to use the wandering days of early parenthood to seek out some new corners of my beloved city. The Lausitzer Platz organic market provided a crazy kaleidoscoped view of old favourites from Prenzlauer Berg  (Gerd, the Persian woman dispensing tea) alongside happy new discoveries (try the deadly Krapfen at the organic crêpe stand ). Go tomorrow, if you can, while the ground is still luxuriant with leaves; meanwhile, I'll be whizzing into the skies, and speaking of which, any tips for the DC area should be emailed to me tout de suite!

Lausitzer Platz Organic Market (map)
Fridays from noon to 6pm

Fish soup at the Kollwitzplatz market

And with the falling temperatures comes an urge to eat fish soup at the stand at Kollwitzplatz. (A snip at €3, for those of you watching your Elterngeld!)

Kollwitzplatz Market, Saturdays 9am - 4pm (map)

Goose & the Domäne Dahlem Christmas Market

Mhmm, hearty enough for you? Having been raised on A Christmas Carol it was gratifying to finally try a bit of Christmas goose (though foolishly I didn't order a whole plate for myself). The Domäne Dahlem Christmas market was smaller this year, perhaps because I was there on the first advent weekend, but the generous plate of goose, Grünkohl and potatoes for €7.50 is worth the trip alone.

Domäne Dahlem Christmas Market, December 8th-9th & 15th-16th from 11 am-7 pm. Admission is 1 EUR for adults, 0.50 EUR reduced, and free for children. (map)