Such good spring onions everywhere, so densely green and so seldom flabby or brown-tipped! I can't resist buying a few bunches for another round of spring onion bhaji, a dish that became a treat while my mother visited for a few weeks after S was born. You remove the roots and slice the greens, give them a cursory wash, then set them aside while you start the phodni. This requires just a few tablespoons of olive oil heated over high heat for a minute or two; add a teaspoon of brown mustard seeds, half a tablespoon of turmeric powder, two or three fresh red chilis (topped and tailed), a dash of hing (or asafoetida powder, or Teufelsdreck, as the Germans have it). Let this spice mixture sputter for a minute, then add in the green onion and stir virgorously once and then again now and then until it's all cooked down and delicious. Sprinkle with salt and rice flour, then stir again and let sit till everything melds and grows crisp. Serve, for choice, stuffed into pita breads, though the bhaji is also delicious alone. And see, there is a recipe or two left in this old girl yet! PS: I mean it when I say it cooks down: count on one bunch of spring onions per person.