With the snow on, the city is rich with Christmas spirit. Everyone in Berlin is in her golden kitchen whipping meringue and cinnamon into confections to grace a tree.
Jagdschloss Grunewald, Hüttenweg 100, Berlin-Grunewald (map) (A bus to Königin-Luise-Straße/Clayallee is the best bet for the carless). Saturday & Sunday 11am-7pm (this weekend only)
If you do venture out into the frost, it seems fair to make for the forest. The Grunewald is hushed in ice; through the woods, the lake reflects a clouded sky. Storytellers in velvet robes mill in the royal hunting lodge's courtyard. After listening to fairy tales and eating too many rosemary potatoes, you can follow the dogs for a walk around the Grunewaldsee.
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Weinbergsparkour, Weinbergspark/Rosenthaler Platz/Brunnenstraße/Veteranenstraße, Berlin-Mitte (map) Saturday noon-9pm, Sunday 1pm-7pm (this weekend only)
I found out about the Weinbergsparkour in a flyer at my favorite tea shop. It's local and uncomplicated, not so much a classic Christmas market as a loose series of events put on by neighborhood shops, including s.wert, Frau Tulpe and Acud. Pick up a flyer at the Berliner Teesalon and take it from there.
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Alt-Rixdorfer Christmas Market, Richardplatz, Berlin-Neukölln (map) Saturday 2pm-9pm, Sunday 2pm-8pm (this weekend only)
Frohnauer Christmas Market, Zeltinger Platz, Berlin-Reinickendorf (map) Saturday & Sunday 11am-6pm (this weekend only)
When I feel Berln is changing all out of measure it's reassuring to go to the places that have stayed the same for decades. These markets on the outskirts of the city retain a village-like feel, heavy on cobblestoned charm and light on tourist hordes. Richardplatz retains its Bohemian-village feel; the Frohnau market focuses on handmade goods (think old-school, not Etsy).
I noticed there was a Swedish Christmas market a few weeks ago in my own neighborhood which I somehow missed. Do you know if there will be another? Many thanks.
Posted by: Della | 07 December 2010 at 02:40 PM
Della, I wish! I think that was it for this year, unless anyone knows otherwise?
Posted by: Berlin Reified | 09 December 2010 at 04:06 PM
Too bad! I went to a nice Finnish market last year in Kreuzberg. The highlight was the "freshly smoked" salmon.
Posted by: Della | 09 December 2010 at 04:48 PM
..loved that "old-school, not Etsy" detail!.. :)
Posted by: Anna | 15 December 2010 at 08:06 PM
Anna, right?
Posted by: Berlin Reified | 17 December 2010 at 02:45 PM